Monday, July 31, 2006

when a road rally's not boring

My first experience as a road rally spectator was anything but boring. I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in 1985 in what was then Zaire and is now again the Congo . I had just become Peace Corps Volunteer Leader in my region, and I needed to bring some new volunteers out to their posts in the Land Rover I drove. We dropped off the first volunteer at his post and continued on towards the second volunteer’s village. We rounded a curve on the bush road when a car hurtled at us. I wrenched the steering wheel left as the rally car screamed by. We looked at each other. The road was not closed, not to our knowledge, and we had many miles to cover before dark. Riding at rally cars was no fun, but I didn’t want a night in the bush either.

 

We continued on cautiously. We tried to estimate the number of minutes between cars as two or three more cars roared at us down the one lane road. Finally we came to a one lane bridge. There we waited till a car lurched around the bend in the road on the far side of the bridge and crossed in front of us. We hesitated briefly—once two cars were far close together than normal, but then we hurried on to the bridge and gunned the sluggish Land Rover engine across the stream. We stopped on the far side and listened before going around the bend on the side of the hill on the far side.

 

We continued on like this, watching the road ahead carefully and trying to be well off to the side of the dirt track each time another car came at us. We began to leave the clay behind and the track became a path through deeper and deeper sand. Getting off the road quickly became difficult and getting off the road at all became impossible in places. We reached a village where a weekly market was just winding down, so we parked the Land Rover, found ourselves some beers, and settled in to watch the stragglers go by. When about an hour had passed with no cars, we continued cautiously on. It was well after dark when we arrived at our destination, but we did not spend the night in the bush.

Sunday, October 16, 2005

marmalade and honey

Click to visit the Bungalow Beach Hotel web site
The breakfasts and the long empty tropical beaches are what I remember. In the late 80's I went to the Bungalow Beach Hotel in the Gambia for the first time. It was August, during the rainy season, off-season for tourists. The nearly deserted beaches were excellent for long walks and even when the rain came it was a fine rain that didn't keep us from the beach. The breakfasts were hard rolls and butter, marmalade and honey, Nescafé and evaporated milk with sugar for a poor man's café au lait. I think there was Laughing Cow cheese, too, though that is not what I remember. I did learn my love for marmalade at the Bungalow Beach Hotel, but any breakfast tastes better when it's lazy. I was back many times after that, usually as part of a big group for our spiritual conferences, but it is those first lazy mornings that stay in my memory. My traveling companion, David Cuthbert, is long back in Europe, and married now, the last I heard. He did try his hand at making marmalade once we were back in Guinea. It was OK, but it wasn't that English marmalade in a lazy off-season hotel.

Saturday, September 17, 2005

the neverending story


The kids and I just finished watching the magic of The NeverEnding Story.

"In the beginning, it's always dark."

Wednesday, September 07, 2005

the kingfisher's wing

.... After the kingfisher’s wing
Has answered light to light, and is silent, the light is still
At the still point of the turning world.

- T.S. Eliot, "Burnt Norton"

the kittens would hide

The kittens would hide behind the bales of hay in the front room of the cowshed. The sunshine through the dusty windows to the south caught the hay dust dancing slowly in the still air of the shed. I think the cows were gone by then. I was still very young. The shed and the kittens have been gone now for thirty years.

Friday, September 02, 2005

wand flowers

'Pink Cloud' Wand FlowerThis summer has been the summer of wand flowers and bumblebees. Salimatou planted wand flowers outside our kitchen window. The bumblebees and the slightest breeze have the pink and white flowers dancing from dawn to dusk.

Wednesday, August 31, 2005

blue

Malachite KingfisherI was driving home from Dalaba in the Fouta Djalon highlands of Guinea late one afternoon. The sun was setting behind me as I rounded the 90 degree turn at the hotel and dance hall at the turn-off to Timbi Madina, about halfway home to Labé. A kingfisher came in from the right and swooped high in the air, the sun catching all his colors in a moment of vivid and breathtaking beauty.

In the next moment, the bird dived directly into the grill of my truck and died there.